The short answer
Artificial grass edges are secured so the perimeter can't lift, curl or move underfoot. On a soil-based installation, the most common method is galvanised U-pins or ground pins driven through the grass into the compacted base every 15–25cm or so around the edge, plus across seams. Many installers also fix the grass to a perimeter edging — treated timber battens, composite boards or a metal/plastic edging system set around the lawn — by pinning or stapling the grass to it for a crisp, firmly held border. On patios and concrete you can't drive pins in, so the edges are bonded down with outdoor grass adhesive. Whatever the method, the aim is a continuous, well-fixed perimeter with the pile tucked in so no backing shows.
Edges are where an artificial lawn is most vulnerable — they catch feet, lawnmowers of the past, and the wind. A properly secured perimeter keeps the whole lawn flat and stops the corners peeling up over time.
Securing edges at a glance
- On soil baseGalvanised U-pins / ground pins
- Pin spacingRoughly every 15–25cm
- Perimeter optionTimber or composite edging
- On concrete/patioOutdoor adhesive (no pins)
- GoalNo lifting, no backing showing
Pinning into a soil base
On a lawn laid over a compacted Type 1 base, the simplest and most common edge fixing is pins:
- Galvanised U-pins (staples) or long ground pins/nails are driven through the grass into the firm base around the entire perimeter.
- Space them roughly every 15–25cm along the edges, with extra fixings at corners and along any seams where lifting is most likely.
- Drive them so the head sits just below the pile, then tease the surrounding fibres over the top with a brush so the pin disappears from view.
- Use galvanised or stainless fixings so they don't rust and stain the grass.
Pinning works because the compacted base grips the pin firmly. On a poorly compacted base, pins can pull loose — another reason the groundwork matters. Avoid over-tensioning the grass as you pin; it should lie flat and relaxed, not stretched.
Edging systems for a crisp border
For a firmer, neater edge — especially next to borders, paths or where the lawn meets soft ground — many installers add a perimeter edging and fix the grass to it:
- Treated timber battens: tanalised timber set around the lawn perimeter, with the grass edge pinned or stapled to the top. Simple and effective.
- Composite or plastic edging boards: rot-proof systems that give a clean, durable border the grass is fixed to.
- Metal or flexible edging: useful for curved beds and a tidy division between lawn and planting.
An edging also helps retain the base at the perimeter, stopping the aggregate from spilling into borders, and gives a defined line between the grass and adjacent surfaces. Where the lawn meets an existing patio, path or wall, the grass is usually trimmed tight to that hard edge and pinned or glued so it sits flush.
| Edge situation | Securing method | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Lawn on soil base | U-pins / ground pins | Every 15–25cm, galvanised |
| Border with planting | Timber / composite edging | Crisp line, retains base |
| Against patio or path | Trim flush + pin or glue | Sits level with hard edge |
| Patio / concrete base | Outdoor adhesive | Cannot pin into hard surface |
Indicative methods. Choose to suit the perimeter.
Securing edges on hard surfaces
When the grass is laid on concrete, paving or a patio, you can't drive pins into the hard surface, so the edges are bonded with adhesive:
- Apply an outdoor-grade grass adhesive around the perimeter, fixing the grass (or its underlay) to the clean, dry hard surface.
- Press the edges firmly and weight them while the adhesive cures, following the curing time on the product.
- On exposed or windy sites, make sure the bond is continuous so wind can't get under a corner and peel the lawn up.
Whatever the surface, a few principles always apply: secure the whole perimeter (not just the corners), add fixings along seams, keep the grass flat and relaxed rather than stretched, and finish by brushing in sand infill, which adds weight and helps hold the edges down. A well-secured edge is what keeps an artificial lawn looking neat and staying put for years.
Edges around obstacles and getting a neat finish
Most gardens have features that the lawn has to fit around — trees, manhole covers, borders, posts, paths and curved beds — and these edges need as much care as the straight perimeter, because they are where lifting and untidy lines most often appear.
- Around trees and posts: cut the grass to fit snugly, leaving a little room for growth around a tree, and pin or glue the surrounding edge so it can't lift.
- Manhole and drain covers: trim the grass neatly to the frame so the cover stays accessible, securing the cut edges. The grass should sit level with the surround.
- Curved borders: a flexible edging system helps you follow the curve with a clean line, and the grass is fixed to it for a defined edge between lawn and planting.
- Against walls and paths: trim tight so the grass meets the hard edge flush, then pin or glue so there is no gap or upstand for feet to catch.
For the neatest possible finish at any edge, a few details make the difference. Cut from the back of the grass with a sharp blade for a clean line, replacing the blade often as it dulls. After fixing, brush the pile over the fixings and along the edge so pins disappear and the blades meet the boundary naturally rather than showing a hard cut line. Finally, work the sand infill right up to the edges, since the weight of the infill helps hold the perimeter down and the supported blades sit better against the boundary.
A lawn is judged as much by its edges as its middle. Straight lines that are crisp, curves that are smooth, fixings that are invisible and a perimeter that lies flat and won't lift are what separate a tidy, professional-looking installation from one that gives itself away at the borders. Taking time over the edges is well repaid in the finished appearance.
Frequently asked questions
How often should you pin the edges of artificial grass?
On a compacted base, galvanised U-pins or ground pins are typically placed roughly every 15–25cm around the perimeter, with extra fixings at corners and along seams where lifting is most likely. The exact spacing depends on the site and how exposed it is; more pins suit windy or high-traffic areas.
How do you secure artificial grass edges without pins?
On hard surfaces like patios and concrete, where pins cannot be driven in, the edges are bonded with an outdoor-grade grass adhesive applied around the perimeter, then pressed and weighted while it cures. On soil, fixing the grass to a timber or composite edging board is an alternative or addition to pinning.
What kind of pins do you use for artificial grass?
Galvanised or stainless U-pins (staples) or long ground pins are used, because they resist rust that could otherwise stain the grass. They are driven through the grass into the compacted base around the edges and along seams, with the heads set just below the pile so the surrounding fibres can be brushed over to hide them.
Sources & further reading
Figures on this page are typical UK ranges drawn from published cost guides and are intended as guidance, not a quotation.